Irony and Pity: Recap: Proenza Scouler F/W 09

Wow. I was backstage for this one too photographing hair/makeup and so I got to see some of the clothes (and touch them!!) and the shoes (I'll post pictures later). I didn't stay for the show, but I keep reviewing style.com and it just gets better and better each time. They are, in my mind, among the very few internationally competitive and progressive designers that show out of New York (the list changes, but at this point I'd safely say Marc, Rodarte, Calvin Klein by Francisco Costa, and PS. Sometimes Thakoon.). At this point, I love how self-referential the collection was (reprising bodice elements from their first collection, fabric themes, etc). They have just built this incredibly forward hybrid of downtown proportions and really high end clothing. And while its not exactly feminine proper, it's a mix of structured and effortless and in that, so New York--one of the highest compliments. What I think are the highlights:

I love shorts for fall, but not when they look vampy or attention-calling. They should be worn as if they were pants, and so these work. These are the perfect length, and also narrow enough to be feminine. Also the tapestry shoes are killing me. In a good way. You can see more detail if you enlarge the photos I took backstage.

Gold zipper and tweed.

I love the pant, and I like how it awkwardly rides over the boot. Very classic and cool. Also the gloves-- and the chainmail-like top is gorgeous; completely wearable.

Notice the collar and closure on this jacket above. Also Proenza always does this great brocade-jacquard-metallic fabric thing, and it never looks overdone. This skirt was good, but the other ones PS showed with the scalloped hems--not good. Boring and unflattering. Probably my only criticism with the show.

I need this coat above. And below. Again, the slacks. I don't feel we've seen these mid-range widths in a while. They're not tight or bootcut, but they don't look grungy or baggy either, very tailored and timeless.

This dress below was divine in person. I touched it, we shared a moment. It's this electric velvet burnout over sheer chiffon. Its perfect. Better than any second-rate knit burnout sweater that I'm already sick of (yet wouldn't say no to...)