Marni

Really good collection. Very pretty and smart. And not sweet--never sweet. Can't stand sweet. Always some eccentric and subversive elements, on top of mature patterns and subdued colors. In these cases, the shaggy monkey-fur (most likely dyed goat hair ) embellishing sleeves, coats, and ear muffs just makes it.




Consuelo Castiglioni is so good at intellectual proportions that offend at first and then you wonder how you ever lived without them. Like Alber Elbaz of Lanvin (countdown to that show!) Fabric-wise, the tornado of textures and colors makes me wonder how she ever came up with them (or ruled out the kitchen sink), and how she managed to make them look poised, controlled, natural.

Also the jewelry is so exquisite. Anything i say would be an understatement to how much i love these necklaces. When i was in London, i met the incredible Roberto of Maria Zureta (see his website), and he crafts similarly layered, haphazard, genius pieces out of old brooches, chains, and semi-precious gems. Amazing discovery, of such a beautiful craftsman! And infinitely cheaper than Marni, though not for long. Here's a picture i took of his stand in UpMarket, London:

Haven't gotten to reviewing (i.e. pouring over) Raf Simmons for Jil Sander yet...apparently i need to brace myself.